Too Fast & Furious As it is NOW PAGE4

[RS2000&MEXICO]

lol...... were is the fun in that....lol

[Trickster]

The fun bit would be trying to get it on the trailer without it bottoming out and ripping the exhaust off

[RS2000&MEXICO]

lol.....na i don't see brian going for that....

[mk2phil]

I was talking about this to the Hoarder today but when putting them this way there does not seem to be anything to locate the spring to axle apart from a small round bit of metel which has a nut on the bottom side of the spring? and the holes in the axle casing are 1" across so surely there would be a lot of movment ?

Brian, when I bought my first mk2 it had decambered single leafs on the back and it was very low indeed - about the same as yours. When I took the springs and axle out, I had no insulator packs and noticed that I also had a 1" diameter locating hole in the axle saddles. And on the spring I had a large 1" locating 'peg' as opposed to just a nut like most I've seen.

When I spoke to Dave @ Gartrac about this (I had a baby atlas built there and they recommended saddles with the small hole) he told me that they were a later 'upgrade' type thing from ford. I've never seen them before myself. I'll get a photo later if I remember...

Also, I had Bilstein struts on the rear of mine (not sure what rate they are) but the rear end was solid - didn't have any bottoming out at all.

The front of yours doesn't look 'that' drastic to me - I've seen loads much lower than that, although you're running 7's aren't you...surely if you have high poundage springs/struts (hard) then it wont be a problem?

Again, mine was pretty low at the front, but it had 2.8i billies on it. I assume these are more uprated than standard RS struts/springs cos they have to support a big V6. When I 'tried' to push the front of mine down, it would only move about 1cm - was very solid.

I would try to work round it mate - yours looks excellent. This is how Ford should have made them - nice and low with 7" Ronals!!!!

HTH - I will try to get a picture of the springs tonight too.

[mk2phil]

Brian - I took a picture for you, but how do you post them on here? Is there no uploader..?

Phil

[Banishit]

just click here phil and wait a minute for the email to come back to you

http://www.redslate.co.uk/upload/

cheers
Mate

[Roger Miller]

Re: Too Fast to Furious NEED SOME TECH ADVICE ?

I put the rear axle on, in the end only to find my decambered single leaf springs are just too low. The axle hits the bumps stops when you push the car down

Brian,
The best fix here is to lengthen the REAR spring hangers. These can be made out of 40 X 6 flat bar, with new holes for spring bolts. U can actually put a few extra holes in them for adjustability. This is the prefered method to remove some of the rears bump steer MR ford built into the car.
The bump stops can be cut down as well.

As for diff location without rubber, at spring seats, U need to make or find a thickish waher that fits over the steel stud that protrudes thru spring and weld this to spring pad hole on diff housing.
If u are worried about noise a thin sheet [2-3 mm] of rubber can be placed between these 2

and the 10" coil over front springs are going to be too low too, as the threaded part of the strut is right down on the brake pipe bracket well 3 mm above so I need 12" now

This is also the prefered scenario. U have fitted the spring threaded section as low as possible, which means u can go upward.
The best fix is turn up some alloy rings to fit over the threaded section, to go between your 10"er and spring seat, at the bottom. u can make this bit however long u like.

the chassis rails are sitting 41/4" of the ground back and 5" on the front so now I dont know what to do

Incidently, the car will handle best if the rear is UP between 16-20 mm higher than front.



PS can u stop showing us your backside...................please. ('')
('')

[Banishit]

cheers for that Roger

BTW have you got pics of the alloy rings for the front spring seating things?


cheers
Brian

[Roger Miller]

No,

But,

here's some "virtual" ones I made up.

[Chrisbo]

Re: Too Fast to Furious NEED SOME TECH ADVICE ?

[quote="RMinOZ"] Incidently, the car will handle best if the rear is UP between 16-20 mm higher than front.[quote]

Not questioning you RMinOZ but I was always lead to believe that front wheel drive were always better nose down and rear wheel drive were better nose up???



Chris.

[Roger Miller]

Re: Too Fast to Furious NEED SOME TECH ADVICE ?

[quote="Chrisbo"][quote="RMinOZ"] Incidently, the car will handle best if the rear is UP between 16-20 mm higher than front.

Not questioning you RMinOZ but I was always lead to believe that front wheel drive were always better nose down and rear wheel drive were better nose up???



Chris.

Dont ask wont find out, i guess.

Need to contact "Myth Busters" me thinks!

A front engined car is front heavy.
Therfore the front wants to take over the car and go straight ahead.
Called understeer or "push"

The best simulation I can think of at mo is a dart. throw it feathers fist and it will eventually turn and land point first.

To reduce this effect, one of the things is we can make the car [seem] heavier at the rear by raising, same, slightly. This changes the center of gravity.

The car also has more in built understeer at the rear.
I eluded to mr ford doing this earlier.

When the car is lowered [or even in a tight turn in STD form] the front pivot point of the rear spring goes below the diff center, center line , looking side on.

This has the effect of turning the diff into the corner.

A boat has a rudder that steers it the opposite way. Thus making it an effective steerer.

Mr ford feels an understeering car is safer for u and me.

This is why i am against decambered springs, as the camber in them makes the diff center line lower, making the rear steer less.
Called Bump Steer.

The lowering blocks preform admirably, except for the axel tramp.
[and dont get me started on the tracktion arms, the RS has]

In Brians situation he is using single leafs i think I read, so they are quite soft. Makeing the car squat down out of corners and moving the CofG back over the rear wheels where he needs it just then.

This is why making the rear shackles longer is best.
Hope Ive covered it





OH................

Brian ...have u checked your rear shocks for length fit yet.........

[Chrisbo]

Eh....Yeah, I think so. I am possibly confusing traction with handling



Chris

[Banishit]

I have now solved the problem went out with a good head of steam and got on with it after the foul mood monday left me with

So I took advice removed the top rubber and plate, mounted a bolt on the spring lug, left the bottom rubber in for location and all seems well ! cut down the top of the bumpstop by 3/4 of and inch attached the billies

it gained me over 1 1/4 inches and removing the top of the bump stop gained anthoer 3/4 the tyres are now still inside the arches and 1" ish but I bounced my near 15 stone of texas beef on it and could not get it to bottom out no matter how hard I tried the rear part of the chassis rail is now 5 1/2" off the ground instead of 4 1/2 ish

Cant take pics of the PIMP my Ride as the cameras gone until sat had to borrow the neighbours during work

[Chesney]

Brian u lazy bugger - u could have painted the mounting bracket for your bump stops!!

[Banishit]

Brian u lazy bugger - u could have painted the mounting bracket for your bump stops!!

LOL I really could not be arsed until I find some new ones or replacements