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  • #16
    sorry to hear that m8 bad show :bom:

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    • #17
      Cheers Brian - Unless you want to come round and work your magic on the roof??



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      • #18
        I like your confidence mines going to the body shop this sat for abit of fettling

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        • #19
          I tend to agree with Banishit. After all, you're going to have to at least straighten out the kinks and get rid of the dents before you fit the BVR, anyway. The only difference is the bit of final work to get the smooth uniform finish for painting. Dad?

          Personally, I would lead the imperfections rather than use filler, but that's just preference. If you've not leaded before it's a bit awe inspiring. Once you've done it, you'll never return to filler - leading is sooooo easy!

          Don't chicken out now - what you've done so far in such record time is a masterpiece!

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          • #20
            Concours de 'Elegance next year Brian ?
            sigpic

            www.auto-restoration.co.uk



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            • #21
              ... for "Best Golf Ball" ?

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              • #22
                Originally posted by Deepest Blue
                Concours de 'Elegance next year Brian ?
                no chance m8 costs too much much I just want it to look clean and fresh and protect what has stayed so well for this many years

                plus I could not be arsed cleaning it all the time I want to drive the thing

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                • #23
                  .... has this thread drifted on to a different car now? Thought it was concerned with M11RF's resto!

                  signed: The Thread Police!

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                  • #24
                    Please accept our apologies officer ! :colors:
                    sigpic

                    www.auto-restoration.co.uk



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                    • #25
                      Leading???

                      Tell me more....

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                      • #26
                        its called Lead loading you get the dent out as much as poss then heat lead sticks with a blow torch and flow it into the dents and the sand/ grind them smooth then prime and paint mostly used on vintage cars on aluminium, theres an art to do it right but then you can say there is NO filler in this car

                        pics example from http://www.classicjaguar.com/projects.html










                        Lawrence uses a wooden paddle to
                        apply the lead


                        Then a file to remove any excess

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                        • #27
                          you can say there is NO filler in this car
                          Thats something i`ll never ba able to claim Brian...

                          LOL :laughing6:

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                          • #28
                            Frost Auto Restoration Techniques (F.A.R.T.) do a good starter kit - you just need a blowlamp and gas. The 'tinning' done before the lead creeps into the nooks and crannies and then the lead itself sticks like shit to a blanket. The surface is then all metal and avoids the tell-tale signs of filler which sometimes show through in certain lighting conditions even after many coats of paint.

                            I thought it would be a tricky science but, after two or three attempts, I now actually find it easier to produce a non-porous, blended in surface than with filler.

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                            • #29
                              im sure a body work pro could sort that out really easily, a bit of localised heat here and there and it could be transformed, obviously gonna cost a few quid, but once its done....................

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                              • #30
                                get rid of the vinyl, if it was standard and came fitted from new i would say keep it.
                                You will have to do just as much prep work before you get new vinyl fiited so you might as well get it painted.

                                i like the idea of leading and will give it ago now i have finally got my mex.

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