help(AGAIN)

[bigjohnie]

lads i need help again,i took the master cylinder i bought two years ago out the box to fit and its the wrong one ,i dont even know what ford its off.the company who took £167 off me dont want to know so i know need a ATE CYLINDER ANY IDEAS.1980 MK2 rs2000

[vinny]

hi johnnie

what about gms - sorry havernt got a link, you must have seen their advert in cf.

good luck fella

[bigjohnie]

oh aye the noo vinny ,i will call them the morra.thanks mate :thumbup:

[arron]

GMS Stock them for £95 + postage :

https://www.gmscaprispares.co.uk

[RS2000CHRIS]

i am also after one.I phoned my local motor factors & they can get me one for £58+vat.ATE 1980 RS & they said it comes with a new resevoir

[bigjohnie]

chris, could you get me the number of factors please that seems a good price mate.gms are advertising the cylinders as 1975-77 ate .I thought that all the early ones were girling but i wiil bow to any superior rs expert.

[Banishit]

mines a 1980 car with ATE

[RS2000CHRIS]

The motor factors is called L&R Motor Parts there phone number is 01603 483427.
they are in Norwich

[dasadrew]

I'm pretty sure that all Ate master cylinders up to 1977 were 19.05mm bore. After 1977 they upgraded to 20.64mm. Theoretically, this should give more power to the brakes with a slightly longer pedal travel. There is a 19 or 20 on the Ate casting - ask the motor factor!

Apart from that, if you've got an Ate servo, both should fit and work. (IMHO the difference isn't worth worrying about).

If you're happy with a 19mm Ate I've got a NOS one without reservoir which you can have for £50 including postage to Britain. See what the Motor Factor offers you.

LHD cars always had Ate and I think they got into RHD cars later on depending on what was in the parts bin when the assembly line worker pulled out a brake set-up.

[KL]

Larger bore = less force at brakes, not more? No real experience of std m/cyls but above applies to rear wheel cyls and m/cyls in bias pedal boxes. Agree average driver will not distinguish between 19mm and 20mm.

[dasadrew]

You're right that I wasn't being too precise, KL! The FORCE exerted on the wheel cylinder is multiplied or reduced by the ratio of its piston area compared to the piston area of the master cylinder. By increasing the size of the master cylinder piston and retaining the wheel cylinder sizes, you get less "force multiplying" which results in less force at the wheel cylinder. However, you move more fluid down the brake line with a bigger master cylinder so the wheel cylinders hit their mark quicker, meaning (I think) that the brakes go on quicker which most daily drivers would sense as being "better" brakes. After all, if the brakes can exert enough force to lock the wheels, what more do you want in the force department?

So the 20.64mm master cylinder should give you a bit less force at the wheel, but better braking response. As you say, for the average driver this gets lost in the woods of tyre size, rubber compound, wheel diameter, road surface etc. etc.!

All the above is, of course, IMHO!!

[RUDDY]

The two studs on the front of the servos where the cylinder fits on are further apart or closer together so you can't swap one to the other . Or is this just the case between Girling and ATE ?

[dasadrew]

I think the incompatibility is between Ate and Girling and not within the respective families. I've got several Ate master cylinders - if anyone's interested I can measure some stud spacings?

When my Ate equipped LHD RS blew the servo in UK I had to change the master Cylinder and servo to Girling as it wasn't possible to mix.

[bigjohnie]

hopefully have a proper ATE one in a couple of days.

[bigjohnie]

i recieved one today but was the same as the one i already had,the bottle looks like an ATE one but it is stamped girling on the master cylinder and as paul says the holes are much wider than the ATE one.fingers crossed the new one will be o.k