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  #21  
Old 30-03-2011, 21:54
KelvinS1965 KelvinS1965 is offline
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Default Nose cone removed!

Managed to get the nose cone off tonight. Despite a week of spraying and soaking with penetrating oil I still managed to snap off one of the nuts and had to cut off the indicator as it was seized onto the nose cone. The exposed metal doesn't seem too bad, but I'll see how it reacts to my favourite de-rusting tool which is a heavy duty wire brush wheel on my angle grinder.

I think I need to remove the driver's door so that I can get to the spot welds that hold the front wing on near the hinge area (unless someone tells me different). Once the wing is removed I'll be able to get at the repair area to neatly cut out the rust as I want to keep the repairs to a minimum.
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File Type: jpg Nearside headlamp above.jpg (170.5 KB, 57 views)
File Type: jpg Nearside headlamp.jpg (180.6 KB, 52 views)
File Type: jpg No nose cone.jpg (115.8 KB, 52 views)
File Type: jpg Offside headlamp above.jpg (173.6 KB, 46 views)
File Type: jpg Offside headlamp.jpg (161.9 KB, 45 views)
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  #22  
Old 30-03-2011, 23:04
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Default hi

good to see some progress there m8....
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  #23  
Old 30-03-2011, 23:26
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It's looking a lot better than mine is, at least you have some metal around the front of the wings.

As for removing the wings, I think you should be able to get the wings off without taking the doors off. There are three hex heads holding the back edge of the wing to the A-post, maybe a bit of weld holding the bottom edge to the bulkhead / front of sill, then a series of spot welds along the wing rail.

Saying that, taking the door off is only 4 bolts, 5 minute job.

Good luck!
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  #24  
Old 30-03-2011, 23:35
KelvinS1965 KelvinS1965 is offline
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Thanks for the feedback. If I can leave the door on for now it's easier as it's pretty hard taking a door off on your own (I did it once with a '93 Cavalier and nearly killed myself ). Just ordered a new spot weld cutting tool and a Dremel set for those hard to reach areas. I need to find a replacement indicator to replace the one I broke tonight.

Really getting back into 'car mode' now after years of apathy due to having a company barge and getting too cosy watching films on my projector setup. My OH bought a '56 plate Mini One last week so I've been doing a few little jobs on that too so it's really upto scratch. I'll see if I can start getting the offside wing off tomorrow, but my spot weld cutter is a bit old so might have to wait for the new one to arrive...
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  #25  
Old 01-04-2011, 20:42
KelvinS1965 KelvinS1965 is offline
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Default Some progress!

Quick play tonight...OH's birthday tomorrow, so not much chance of working on it tomorrow (and Mother's day on Sunday too ). The wire brush stripped away most of the surface rust really quickly, so just need the Dremel to get right in the corners. Seemed solid enough under the flakes and dirt though. Not as rusty as I'd first feared once I took off the nose cone.

Can anyone take a photo of the lower front wing section? I can see the gap between the wing and front valence but as shown in my photo the gap dissappears under a bit of brazing (I think anyway) so I'm not sure where I need to cut. If anyone has a new wing they could take a close up of I'd be grateful.

Drilled about half the wing rail spot welds out, but think I need to take the bonnet off to get at the last few welds...not easy on your own, so I'll have to phone a friend.
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File Type: jpg Spot welds drilled.jpg (162.4 KB, 77 views)
File Type: jpg Lower wing joint.jpg (171.3 KB, 72 views)
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  #26  
Old 03-04-2011, 20:05
KelvinS1965 KelvinS1965 is offline
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Thanks for the heads up re the 3 bolts under the wing: Mine were like new under the mastic/stonechip so came out straight away. The wing is nearly off, just waiting for my Dremel to turn up so I can neatly cut the front edge away from the valance. The wing rail is rotten, but it seems to get solid within a few inches of the inner wing, so the replacement rail I've got should be all it needs 'letting in' I hope.
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  #27  
Old 04-04-2011, 22:38
KelvinS1965 KelvinS1965 is offline
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Default Wing removed.

Got the offside wing off and cut out the rusty drip rail section ready to let in the repair piece. I'm going to need to remove the strut top plate to chop a bit more of the inner wing away. I'd hoped I might get away with using some flat steel to fill the gap, but might have to buy the smaller top section of the inner wing and cut oout the bit I want to minimise the repair size.

It's at that 'OMG' stage right now, but I did once cut the floor out of an MGB and replace that, plus other pieces of chassis/floor supports...I hope I haven't lost the knack 14 years later.
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File Type: jpg Inner wing OS.jpg (130.9 KB, 65 views)
File Type: jpg Drip rail cut out OS.jpg (134.4 KB, 89 views)
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  #28  
Old 04-04-2011, 23:39
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OMG, yep - I know exactly how you feel there bud. The remaining edge of the wing top looks a lot more intact than mine is. I'd definitely take the strut top plate off, there's certainly going to be something lurking under there. I don't think Ford thought about it that much but it was always going to be a moisture trap. Stick with it mate, if you've done it before all will be good. I haven't....eep!!
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  #29  
Old 05-04-2011, 00:45
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good to see some more progress ..
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  #30  
Old 05-04-2011, 22:05
KelvinS1965 KelvinS1965 is offline
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Took the top plate off tonight, had assistance from my young lad (as in he held the lamp for me ). I ordered both sides top inner wing repair section for just over 60, collect tomorrow, so I'll be able to cut out what I need so I can hopefully hide most of the joins under the top plate once it's refitted. The underside of the top plate seems pretty good and will clean up with the rotary wire brush...I always find it weird how you can have rust in one bit, then a few inches away have nice solid metal.
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File Type: jpg Top plate removed OS.jpg (131.4 KB, 98 views)
File Type: jpg Top plate.jpg (146.0 KB, 95 views)
File Type: jpg Under top plate OS.jpg (140.7 KB, 87 views)
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  #31  
Old 14-04-2011, 20:40
KelvinS1965 KelvinS1965 is offline
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Still waiting for my welder parts to arrive, so I gave it a bit of a hoover out and wipe down of all the interior as it was getting a bit dusty. It's not at all bad inside, though I will probably remove the seat covers to wash them as they are a bit dust ingrained no matter how much I hoover them.

You can see the cobwebs underneath , but bar the odd bit of surface rust it's pretty good under there. I'm still not sure what treatment I'll give to the underside as it seems a major job to get it off only to reveal solid metal underneath. If I paint it then it'll be less durable than now, but more like a show car. If I make it too shiny I might not want to drive it.
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File Type: jpg Dusty floorpan.JPG (96.7 KB, 64 views)
File Type: jpg Front OS chassis rail.JPG (118.3 KB, 70 views)
File Type: jpg Rear Arch.JPG (91.2 KB, 58 views)
File Type: jpg Underbonnet rust.JPG (109.6 KB, 56 views)
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  #32  
Old 14-04-2011, 20:44
KelvinS1965 KelvinS1965 is offline
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The interior shots. Shame about the speakers in the doors, but I like to have music in the car and it's been like that since my parents bought it in 1980 anyway.

PS. The mileage is genuine, though hard to prove now that it hasn't had an MOT since 1998 (I have nearly all the previous ones though).
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File Type: jpg Back Seat.JPG (122.4 KB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg Dashboard.JPG (108.1 KB, 57 views)
File Type: jpg Front seats.jpg (104.2 KB, 55 views)
File Type: jpg Drivers seat.jpg (103.3 KB, 62 views)
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  #33  
Old 21-05-2011, 17:31
KelvinS1965 KelvinS1965 is offline
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Got my welder bits and pieces, so hope to get some time to start working on it again now (work has been a bit silly lately, which is my excuse). Added incentive is that I had a ride in a friend's TVR Chimaera and have deceided that I'd like one myself, which means I'll have to sell the RS to make room for it as I don't want to leave it out in the open on my drive. It helps with the resto choices as I don't want to turn it into a concourse example and I think a buyer would prefer to see how unmolested the majority of the car is (these sections apart) so will only clean things up a little.

What do you guys think of this approach? Would I put more buyers off by having everything too new and shiny looking or a more 'honest' condition?
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  #34  
Old 12-06-2011, 19:17
KelvinS1965 KelvinS1965 is offline
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As it's rained all day I got out in the garage for some noisy work, cutting and grinding. Just waiting for a delivery of Bilt Hamber deox C and Electrox zince primer, so I can treat the areas that will be covered by the repair section and underneath the strenghtener plate. Most of the repair section seam weld will be hidden by the top plate as can be seen in the trial fit picture.

From the lack of response to my earlier question I take it I've been 'sent to Coventry' for even mentioning selling my RS. I'm just going to clean up as much as I can while I have easy access, but my priority now is to get the welding done on both sides and get the car back on the road sooner. Once it's back on the road I can continue to improve it until such time as I put it on the market. Seeing the high (and IMHO slightly ridiculous) prices for even non RS Mk2s I should get enough for it to buy a tidy example of a TVR that doesn't need a full rebuild.

Hopefully post back later in the week with these bits actually welded in. Then just need to add the wing rail repair section...
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File Type: jpg Inner wing repair section.jpg (167.7 KB, 66 views)
File Type: jpg Top plate trial fit.jpg (170.9 KB, 71 views)
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  #35  
Old 04-10-2011, 15:21
KelvinS1965 KelvinS1965 is offline
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Haven't bothered doing anything since the last post, kind of lost interest. Any idea what the car would be worth as it stands, or with the above repairs finished leaving the passenger side to do?
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  #36  
Old 04-10-2011, 20:01
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  #37  
Old 04-10-2011, 20:06
KelvinS1965 KelvinS1965 is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mk2steve View Post
Thanks for the help in this matter.
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  #38  
Old 07-10-2011, 16:42
KelvinS1965 KelvinS1965 is offline
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As it seems from the numberious PMs like 4k might be the kind of offer I'd get then I reckon I'd be crackers to sell it as it stands. However, I won't work on it though until I feel enthused again, so it'll be a thorough job. If I'd spent the time I wasted restoring my ex wife's MGB doing the RS instead it would have been concours by now...if only for the enthusiam of my younger days.

Hopefully by this time next year it'll be on the road, used a bit in the summer and maybe even a track day (insured just in case I kill it ) get it sold while it's fully upto scratch...then I can get my TVR early next winter.

I might come back to post the rest of the work if I can remember my password by then...

EDIT: MK2Steve, I still can't figure why you posted an 'angry' smilie...just think if I sell it, then someone else gets to enjoy it.
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  #39  
Old 07-10-2011, 21:40
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kevin i went through the same when i was doing mine but its time to keep your chin up and crack in over the winter .
just think of the fun you can have when its done
ITS THE PLESSURE PAIN thingy
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  #40  
Old 03-03-2012, 20:48
KelvinS1965 KelvinS1965 is offline
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Haven't been on here in a while. The weather is improving and my indoor DIY activities are nearly done, so hoping to get back onto the RS again soon.

For now I've given up on the TVR idea, having picked up a mint BMW Z3 3 litre to satisfy my quest for some open top fun...it doesn't need any work (bar finding a hardtop for better security as it's parked outside) so shouldn't impact on my work on the RS. Already had the 'hairdresser' comments.
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